By Stela Sallaku / The rift in Arman's dress and the rift in vulgarity! We ask for elegance
2021-10-29 14:11:00
Stela Sallaku
These days in Dubai Giorgio Armani gathered his favorite artists at his hotel, after 11 years, for the 10th anniversary of the hotel. It reminded me of the resistance of this stylist of elegance and artistry to any trend, that does not make women look beautiful, but that by trying to look sexy they risk vulgarity.
For this reason I want to analyze the dress and the odyssey of the slit that crossed the boundaries, and of course killed the beauty as well.
Vertical cuts, made of clothing, are among the oldest fashion and design tricks. They are classified into pliers, sides, vertical quilts, chains, row of buckles, cufflinks, "V" collar, etc. All of these are techniques that help lengthen the silhouette. Among them is the vertical crack made at the end or the dress.
Sometime around the '50s began experimenting with skirts and jackets with pairs on the back. Initially it was 5-7cm crack length, which could have even pairs. We liked it and raised the cut even 5cm higher. Always within design norms and standards. In the offices you could not wear them, but dinners why not.
Në 2016-2017 Rani Zakhem (vjeshtë-dimër) solli fustanet e mbrëmjeve me të çarë deri në rrëzë të kofshës. Duke qenë se janë pjesë e koleksionit "Haute Couture", gjithçka është punuar me dorë deri në detaje. Copa nuk është aspak vulgare, nuk ka asnjë shtresë tyli kineze dhe as saten. Edhe pse ka një alamet të çare, nuk duket i ekzagjeruar. Seç ka një sofistikim kur e sheh, Angelina Jolie-s do t’i shkonte për mrekulli.
Po të më pyesnin mua, e çara perfekte e një fustani, u realizua nga mjeshtri Giorgio Armani në 2017-tën. Kishte një elegancë dhe sharm, kishte sensualitet dhe maturi. Gjithçka e realizuar më së miri, duke përshatur edhe copën me vetë dizajnin. Ishte arritur balanca e duhur mes pjesës së sipërme të jakës, dhe dekoltesë së fundit.
Today, the slit dress is no longer fashionable. And yet this does not prevent ladies and gentlemen, VIPs or not, to appear at the weddings of friends in tulle dresses, which have a cracked sign. They are usually tulle or satin from shiny linen. They are custom-made dresses, where the tailor is advised to deepen the neckline well up to the navel. It is narrow, to the point of self-sacrifice. Cracked so much that it no longer goes. Translucent as much as it looks like second skin. It is light years away from that original design and the reason why we make dresses with necklines. In trying to look sensual, it seems outdated.
How did we go from Arman design to this one today?
